Paris Fashion Week faves
It was quite hard to choose between so many great collections shown in Paris but here they are, my favorite five Parisian fashion shows:
Albert Kriemler, the founder of Akris label, designed a smart-casual, impeccable cut collection with a minimalist appeal. The one-color or similar-shades outfits with accentuated waist generate a long, lean and elegant look. I love everything from double-faced cashmere suits, the slick suede tunics worn over thin turtlenecks and slim pants, tulle dresses adorned with suede rectangles, envelope pockets seen on cashmere skirts and jackets but also on a long evening dress.
Nicolas Ghesquière's prefall 2008 show for Balenciaga was only a mere prelude for this breathtaking sci-fi austere f'08/w'09 collection, inspired by 1950s film noir, the house's archive and spanish references. The result is an extraordinary mix between rigorous tailoring, high-tech fabrics and traditional jewelry sparkling at the necks and wrists. The best moments include the molded silver dress cut with swag back, hand-painted and embossed latex jackets and dresses and, my favorite, the skinny gray pants worn with draped velvet and taffeta top. Brilliant!
What I loved about Chloé fall2008/winter2009 collection was the color palette and the unlikely-fall-trend floral prints. There are some interesting outerwear pieces and decorative details such as haberdashery appliqués on coats, skirts and dresses, embroidered or printed tights but the best moments were the delicate long-sleeved dresses with a fluttery side trail worn with pointy stilettos with an ankle cuff or booties with 3-D leaves on one side.
I saw Riccardo Tisci's spring 2008 Couture show for Givenchy and this f08/w09 rtw collection follows the same dark, romantic, Goth aesthetic, with a strong Hispanic influence. The later is more obvious in the flamenco touches such as black lace appliqués, ruffled blouses or the cropped toreador jackets teamed up with skinny leather pants and patent ankle wedge boots with Velcro closure. But all-in-all the entire collection has a very modern appeal, with a couture-like sophisticated touch.
I think this is one of the loveliest collections John Galliano designed for his own label. Maybe because it looks very wearable or maybe for the 20s-30s-forties retro references and surely for its delicious palette of dusty pink, pale blue, teal and burgundy. Charming and dramatic outfits: flapper frocks and bias cut chiffon dresses, Poiret harem pants, retro coats with embroidered roses or with a cascading down, ruffled built-in cape are all adorn with flamboyant hats.